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A Mood Makeover

A de facto ban on drinking alcohol has transformed the atmosphere around popular hangout spots in Istanbul, much to the chagrin of some locals.

by Cagri Sari 19 June 2018

As our regular readers know, TOL normally does not cover Turkey, unless an issue concerns one of the countries we do cover in post-communist Central and Eastern Europe and Eurasia. However, through the fall and perhaps beyond, we are making an exception because of the dire situation faced by many journalists in Turkey since the attempted coup in 2016. After that dramatic event, almost 200 media outlets were closed down and scores of critically minded journalists lost their jobs and now struggle to eke out an existence. We are proud to provide some international exposure to many of these Turkish reporters and expand, at least for now, our mission of supporting independent journalism and the freedom of the media to this fascinating and important part of the world.



Crowded close to each other, the potted trees in slatted wooden containers seem out of place on the steps in front of the Galata Tower, one of Istanbul’s most prominent landmarks. Indeed, the plants are not there for decoration. Their purpose is to prevent people from gathering on the steps to sit and drink beer, a popular nightly occurrence until just three years ago.


In 2015, plants replaced the young crowds on the iconic steps. The official explanation was that local residents had complained about the noise the gatherings made. Ever since the trees appeared, the steps have been almost empty.


But local youngsters say that the real reason is very different, and that the trees in front of the Galata Tower are a symbol of a changing Turkey. They blame President Recep Tayyip Erdogan’s conservative government for this transformation, which includes promoting an atmosphere in which public drinking, if not banned outright, is increasingly frowned upon.


Burak Karakurt recalls being a frequent visitor to the Galata steps during his years as a university student.


Burak Karakurt on the steps in front of the Galata Tower.


“Even if I went by myself, I would always find some of my friends there,” Karakurt, who is now 29 years old, said. “In the evening, the place was so full of young people that it was often impossible to find a free spot in front of the tower.”


Karakurt, an account manager in an Istanbul advertising agency, grew up in the Aegean city of Izmir, known for its secular lifestyle. When he moved to Istanbul in 2010 for university, the city was still a very relaxed place, not unlike Izmir, he said.


“People hung out in [the famous Istanbul district of] Taksim, in front of the Galata Tower and in Istiklal Street, and I never had any problems there,” Karakurt said. He and his friends used to sit there with some drinks as a pleasant way to pass an evening without spending too much money.


An archive image of young people hanging in front of the Galata Tower, before the potted trees were placed there in 2015.


“We used to go there with the drinks that we had bought in a liquor store. It was a cheap and an alternative way of having fun,” he said.


It was in 2012 that the situation began to change.


 “At that time, Erdogan, who was then the prime minister, made negative statements about people who drink and the general attitude toward those who drink in public also changed. This behavior was not tolerated anymore,” Karakurt explained.


In 2013, Turkey introduced legislation restricting the sale of alcohol in markets and liquor shops to the hours between 6am and 10pm. This limit does not apply to licensed pubs, restaurants, and bars – but those in the industry say that getting such a license has become more and more difficult.


There is no legal ban on consuming alcohol in public either, but it has become extremely rare to see anyone outside of a pub or a restaurant drinking at all.  The de facto ban is being enforced by the so-called zabita, a special unit appointed by each municipality to ensure public order and security.


Although the zabita do not have the same authority as regular police units, they can fine people they deem to be creating a public disturbance, as well as shop owners who sell alcohol without a license.


Karakurt said that the municipal crackdown had not just affected the Galata Tower area. A similar atmosphere had been created in other parts of Istanbul frequented by young crowds.


The steps in front of the Galata Tower today. Young crowds have been replaced by trees.


“In Istiklal Street, everybody used to hang out with beers in their hands. Now it is almost impossible to see anyone there drinking beer in public,” he said, adding that he no longer goes to any of those old hangouts with his friends.


“I feel like I need to be careful all the time,” he said.


An ‘Inappropriate’ Image


For Fulya Alakoc, a 31-year-old editor at an Istanbul publishing house, Galata was also one of her favorite spots to relax. 


Fulya Alikoc next to potted trees on the steps in front of the Galata Tower that prevent young crowds from sitting and drinking there.


“On the day police closed the place with barricades, our time of hanging out there was over,” she said. “I don’t go to Galata anymore. None of my friends go, either.”


She also believes that the de facto ban on drinking alcohol in Galata has nothing to do with creating public disturbances, but instead with the ideological position of Erdogan’s ruling AK party.


“The government is conservative. They consider drinking alcohol to be a sin and immoral,” she said. “Galata is a tourist attraction and one of the symbols of Istanbul. I think the government believes that public drinking in such a place would be inappropriate for the conservative image they want to create for Istanbul.”


This new approach toward alcohol has also had an impact on cafes and restaurants around Taksim and the Galata Tower. Many business owners describe trying to obtain a license for years without success.


The owner of a cafe-restaurant near the Galata Tower, who asked to remain anonymous, said that illicitly selling alcohol was the only way for many local businesses to survive.

“The profit in this area comes from tourists and people who come here to have fun. We wouldn’t be able to cover all our expenses without selling alcoholic beverages,” he said.


A bartender working at a restaurant close to the tower, who also asked to remain anonymous, recalled the neighborhood’s former carnival atmosphere. That had now changed, he continued.


“Maybe some residents did complain about the noise coming from boisterous crowds, but completely closing the place down for young people was not the right solution,” he said. “Now we’ve lost the colorful scene we had before. It’s sad because people who were drinking here were mostly university students who couldn’t afford to drink in bars.”


Cevahir Efe Akcelik, a member of the executive board of Istanbul’s Turkish Engineer and Architects Association, said that the local municipality was trying to impose its own moral vision on public spaces.


“They may say that the pots were put there to make the neighborhood more beautiful, but it is clear that the reason is something else,” Akcelik said, arguing that the Turkish government wants to not only prevent alcohol consumption, but to also prevent couples from sitting together, and young people hanging out freely.  


“The local municipality did not contact us before placing these pots, which clearly do not belong there,” he said. “This is a tourist district, and what made it beautiful was that it was lively, energetic, and fun.”


“I have never heard anyone complaining of any disturbance because people were drinking beer on the steps in front of the tower,” Akcelik continued. “In my view, this is clearly about the government being uncomfortable with young people drinking alcohol in Galata.”  


Despite repeated efforts, the local authorities did not respond to requests for comment.

Cagri Sari is the editor of the politics section at the Evrensel newspaper. Based in Istanbul, she previously spent six years at Hayat TV as a reporter and editor. She mainly writes about politics and freedom of the press.

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